Work Garden Fava Beans

Here are some pictures of fava beans that I grew in my work garden a while ago. The variety is one of the shortest that I could find and is called the “Robin Hood” fava bean.

  

 

While there are cultures in the world that really enjoy eating fava beans, we primarily utilize them as a cover crop. I really don’t have much against consuming fava beans, but the taste and texture are not my favorite.

To top it off, the last time we had fava beans as a family – my wife was sick in bed thereafter. It seems that she may have had a mild case of favism. There is a chemical in fava beans that can be toxic to some groups of people, so before becoming gluttonous with any large crop of fava beans, it may be wise to try a couple out to see if you have a reaction.

The crop of fava beans I had was good, but near the end, they were attacked pretty hard by aphids. Whether this particular variety of fava is more susceptible to aphids or whether all fava beans are prone to aphid infestations, I really cannot say. My approach to dealing with pest pressure would probably be considered an “integrated pest management” approach. I cut the tops off the most infested plants and put them away from the other plants (in a plastic trash bag) but it was only a matter of time before the aphids spread across most of the plants 

 

Despite the onset of beneficial insects, the aphid population had come to a point where I made the decision to cut most of the plants down at the base. I kept a few of the healthiest plants as a place for me to safely leave all of the eggs, larvae and adult beneficial insects I found as I cleared the bed.

 

 

 

As a cover crop, fava beans tend to bank as much nitrogen into the soil as any other cover crop I know of. Not do the plants produce plenty of nitrogen below ground but they produce plenty of foliage above the soil which helps to smother any potential weeds that may arise. I highly encourage those who have never tried growing a cover crop, to at least try a shorter fava variety, like Robin Hood. It is well worth the minimal time and energy required to reinvigorate the soil for the next season.

Seeds from the Parthenocarpic Diva Cucumber

Approximately 750 seeds of viable Diva cucumber seeds from a 5 gallon (about 19 liter) bucket that was full of old fruit. Many of the old fruit would have only a few seeds and some had none at all. Just for reference, these were grown outside in the presence of bees.

Wondering why parthenocarpic seed is sometimes expensive? Getting good pollination with fruit that sets even without pollination can be a challenge.

Water-soaked Cucurbit Respiratory Roots

Over time, I am seeing more and more concerns from people who are going to Cucurbits in areas that receive a lot of rain. While moisture is generally good, because of the way that the Cucurbit roots change over time their need for sufficient drainage changes as they grow. While providing plenty of water at the base of the plant is beneficial as a seedling, once the plant begins producing fruit it's need for respiration in the root zone is much higher.

 

While I am no expert on all things Cucurbit, I have learned from experience that the roots of these vining crops have a higher demand for air as they continue to expand. If, as the root system expands, the roots that were once dry are flooded with water, the plant will begin to drown. The only comparison I can make is phenomena in the lungs.

 I made a quick video to explain it as well as to explain how I discovered this. Basically, I was growing in a partial hydroponic environment and was able to literally see what happens to the plant roots over time and how they reacted when the respiratory roots were flooded.

Attached is the picture of the image I refer to in the video. As garders struggle with wetter climates, it may be wise to grow Cucurbits on hills with very good drainage. I really hope this helps many of those gardeners that are struggling with their cucurbits this year because of excessive moisture.

Seeds of Arkansas Little Leaf Cucumber

I want to start by saying that, though I have been very focused on growing various cucumber and immature melon varieties out the last dozen years of my life, I continue to feel like a beginner. I keep meeting those who know so much more in many ways, I keep making mistakes and learning new things. With that, I did want to share a little bit of insight for those of you who may want to grow "greenhouse" type cucumbers, but would prefer to use open-pollinated instead of hybrid seed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Though many hybrids are parthenocarpic and gynoecious, some parthenocarpic cucumber varieties are also open-pollinated. What does this mean? It means that, though the parthenocarpic plants can produce female fruit without pollination, because the vines also produce male flowers – if they are pollinated properly – they will produce viable seed that will grow the same kind of cucumber.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This requires a good population of both plants and bees though, so don’t be surprised if you try to save seeds of a parthenocarpic variety only to find out that there are no seeds in it. If there is no pollinator present to deliver pollen at the precise time when the female flower is ready to receive it, no seed will be set. I have successfully saved viable seed from a few parthenocarpic cucumber varieties. Here are a couple pictures from when I saved seed from Arkansas Little Leaf. As I recall, out of the whole jar, I only harvested a few dozen viable seeds.