Rouging the Carosello

Over the last few years I have been growing different varieties of cucumber-melons. For the most part, I have been growing each new variety in isolation. That is until now. I planted one friend’s carosellohttps://cucumbershop.com variety only to later learn that the variety was not pure. Some cucumber plants produced small long dark-green fruit, others produced short light-green fruit, some produced long light-green fruit with dark green blotches, while a few produced short light-green fruit with dark-green splotches.

Off-Type Long Carosello (Cucumber-Melon)

Light-green Short Carosello

Long Carosello with Splotches

When I had initially planted this variety I thought that the majority of the cucumber plants would be producing the short light-green fruit with dark-green splotches. As soon as I found that the seed was not pure I began “selfing” the plants (pollinating the female flowers using male pollen from the same plant). Selfing is usually considered a negative thing for outbreeding plants (plants that do not have a flower that can pollinate itself). This is because there is little genetic variability in the offspring. However, when one specific cucumber variety has been bred with another variety, its genetic variability is pretty high.

More Long Carosello with Splotches

So now I am getting rid of all the unwanted fruit and plants to make room for the cucumber variety with the traits I desire. This process of getting rid of the plants with undesirable traits is called “rouging”. It will probably take a few generations of rouging and selfing before my plants produce a uniform cucumber variety. Then I’ll need to grow it out for a few more generations before it becomes a completely stable variety. I will know that I have a stable variety when most of the plants I grow produce few off types (cucumbers that do not match the type I am seeking for).

Unwanted Plants going into the compost pit

In the meantime, I am saving a few of the interesting cucumber types, eating a lot of immature cucumbers, and adding a lot of cucumber vines to my compost pile. Even when things don’t go right the first time it’s nice to know you can eat or compost your failures.

Some off-type cucumber-melons ready to eat

Squash Vine Borer (SVB)



The Beautiful yet menacing Squash Vine Borer

For those living in the South, the appearance of these beautiful moths means only one thing – dead squash plants. These creatures are the reason why I am limited in the type of squash I can grow. The moth lays little brown or red eggs along the stem or near the blossom of any squash or pumpkin plant. The shape of the eggs resembles a human blood cell. If any egg stays on the vine for a few days it will hatch and a small caterpillar will bore straight into the squash vine. As the caterpillar grows it prefers to travel to the thicker parts of the vine.

Squash Vine Borer Eggs on a Zucchini Vine

Occasionally the caterpillar will make a hole to remove its waste, or frass. If you walk around your squash and notice small piles of yellow-orange material coming from the vine you may be encountering the results of squash vine borer (SVB) damage. 

Borer damage will destroy the bottom of the plant

To remove the caterpillars I usually use a razor blade, a needle, and a metal twist tie (the same kind that are used in produce departments to keep bags closed. I find the place with the frass, I cut it open along the grain of the vine, I quickly extract the caterpillar with the needle, then I tie the vine back together with the metal twist tie. 

Squash Vine Borer Larva

 

Squash Vine Borer Larva destroy the Squash Vine

Zucchini is very prone to immediate death from the Squash Vine Borer, as there is usually only one stem and one root system. Rounde De Nice is the only zucchini variety I have found that is resistant to the squash vine borer because it roots along the stem. Should you know of any zucchini varieties that re-root along the stem like Rounde De Nice please let me know.



This newly hatched borer was still lethargic

 

 

 






Protecting Carosello Blossoms

As if it wasn’t bad enough that the Little Brown Birds (LBBs) had a feast on my spinach seed, they decided to come back for more. It got personal when they discovered my cucumber-melons (Carosello). I describe Carosello in a previous post.


The LBBs eyeing my Carosello plants.

I had experienced ants eating my melon flowers before and at first thought that it was ants that were harvesting the flowers. But after keeping the ants out of my garden for a few days I looked outside to discover these eating my melon blossoms!



Male Blossoms eaten off my Carosello plant.

An immature Female Blossom eaten off the Carosello plant.

Alas the LBBs were at it again. These unwelcome guests decimated a whole crop of cucumbers, eating the female flowers just past the stigma. Bird netting is too much work for me, and I have had experiences in the past with birds getting past the netting so I decided to just protect the female flowers. I used a jewelry gift pouch to cover and protect my female blossoms. I only keep the bags on there until I pollinate the flower and the petals dry out. Then the birds leave the female flowers alone.

Jewelry gift pouches to save my blossoms.



A premature female blossom not yet in bloom.

After figuring out how to save my female flowers I mixed some habaneros with some water in the blender and sifted out the mixture into a spray bottle. Spraying the spicy liquid on the plants has really helped to keep the birds off the male flowers, though they continue to go after the female flowers. I suppose I will be buying jewelry gift bags for a while to come.

Another Carosello blossom is safe - for now!

LBBs Attack!



Beware - LBBs are everywhere!

After reading about an encounter one author had with Little Brown Birds (LBBs) eating her plant seeds my reaction was, “That won’t happen to me.” Oh how wrong I was. After growing out some of my Viroflay Spinach to seed I came out one morning to see the LBBs flying away and my spinach seed scattered everywhere.

I tried hanging some bright shiny foil around the spinach. This worked before to keep birds away from my tomatoes - but not this time. The birds knew how good the first batch was and kept coming for more.

So what does this mean? This means that those spinach seeds which I saved earlier (before the LBBs descended upon my plot) will mature and possibly bolt a little sooner than I had desired.

I hope that those gorged LBBs that feasted on my seeds get a bad stomach ache!

Scattered Seeds is all that remains of the LBB's feast.

Plastic Foil Strips will sometimes scare birds away-  if used preventitively.

Isolating Beans



Tepary Bean Plants are native to the Southwest.

Because I am still experimenting and learning about many of the vegetable varieties that are out there I want to keep the seed of each variety I grow, without having them cross-pollinate with other varieties. In order to do this, I must isolate each cultivar (or specific vegetable variety) from others in the same family. For example: I do not want to grow a red lettuce that tasted wonderful next to a green lettuce that tasted awful and have them cross-pollinate to create something in-between. I might get a good tasting green lettuce or I could end up with a bad tasting purple lettuce. Either way, I have no intention to devote my efforts to breeding lettuce until I know what type of lettuce grows best in my climate and what type of lettuce my family enjoys eating the most.

A gardener can isolate his plants in many different ways. My least favorite method of isolation is using distance to keep one variety from another. If I wanted to keep seed of two different types of corn I would have to separate them by at least a mile to keep them from cross-pollinating. I do not have miles of garden to work with (though I wish I did) so instead I try to isolate my plants by only growing one variety of each plant family per season. I do have some exceptions to growing more than one family of plants in separate seasons.



Purple Podded Pinkeye - No pods yet.



Two of the exceptions I have to growing multiple plants in the same family include if I’m trialing the plant and I don’t need to keep seed or if I’m dealing with a family of plants that rarely cross-pollinate (i.e. tomatoes). Another exception involves how I pollinate my peppers. I hand pollinate them with a paintbrush early in the season when I see very few pollinators. Then I only save seed from the earlier peppers, being mindful to clearly label each variety to keep them separated.

To isolate my beans I have chosen to grow different species of bean rather than isolate them in any other manner. I am currently growing three different kinds of beans – Southern peas, purple hyacinth beans, and tepary beans. The southern pea variety (cultivar: Purple Podded Pinkeye) is from the family Vigna unguiculata, while the purple hyacinth bean is from the Dolichos lablab family, and finally my Tepary beans (unknown cultivar borrowed from the library) is from the Phaseolus acutifolius family.



Bushy Tepary Beans - I take pictures at night because of the daytime heat


I knew that my southern peas were bush beans and my Hyacinth beans were vine beans and I thought that my Tepary beans were probably a vining variety too. However, as you can see, my Tepary beans are currently more bushy than vining. As far as I know, all three of these bean families have a vining and a bush equivalent - meaning that you can either grow them up a trellis or you can keep them low near the ground, depending upon your gardening needs.

Growing different families of beans enables me to notice the positive and negative features of each family of beans. For example, the southern peas (Vigna unguiculata) often attract ants to take part in a mutalisitic relationship. The beans produce nectar sources near the flower pods, called extrafloral nectaries. As payment, the ants act as a beneficial insect on the beans, keeping off any bug that might consider the bean as a meal. One drawback to this is that every time I harvest these kind of beans that I’ll be sure to harvest some ants with the beans.

Purple Hyacinth beans named after their purple pods - none here yet.

What I know about Tepary beans is that they are incredibly drought and heat resistant while Purple Hyacinth beans produce flowers which really attract pollinators. And pollinators are exactly what I need for some of my vegetables pollinate - as long as they are the same variety. There are so many bean varieties that, if you do have a lot of pollinators in your area, you may find it advantageous to grow different families to keep your favorite varieties pure.