Tuesday, December 27, 2011

My current winning tomato variety - Siletz


Siletz tomatoes that lack pollination also lack seeds
This year all the tomato plants in my temporary greenhouse are from the variety Siletz. I usually diversify in the varieties I plant but I was so impressed with the performance of this cultivar last season that I only planted seeds of this variety. I'm still planning on starting a couple other varieties soon. Siletz was the only variety that could even compare to Celebrity in production.  And since the taste of the tomato fruit is the least of concerns for Tucson’s tomato gardeners I am willing to have food production be pretty high on my priority list. Don’t get me wrong – a tomato’s taste is important but without shadecloth most tomatoes are lucky to produce a few fruit in Arizona’s summer heat. Many varieties that are advertized as producing an abundant crop of large tomatoes just barely present 1 or 2 cherry-sized tomatoes per plant. When planting anything in my garden I first prioritize what I want. The three things that matter most to me are that the plant is open-pollinated, that it can grow in my climate, and that it produces lots of food. Growing in my climate requires that the plant exhibit vigor, disease resistance, heat resistance, and large fluctuations in temperature.

Although some may scoff at the taste of a Celebrity Hybrid tomato, none will laugh when you compare a tomato plant with 25-50 large fruit on the vine with what many heirloom plants produce in my climate - almost nothing. For this reason some gardeners who try Celebrity may choose not to go back to heirloom tomatoes. This is also the reason that some gardeners who do not grow hybrids make an exception for Celebrity. So why have I been growing a hybrid tomato in my heirloom garden? Because I use Celebrity as a standard to compare my other tomatoes to rather than as a long term solution to my food production needs. It is unfortunate that, within my garden, Slietz has been the only other cultivar that has even compared to Celebrity in fruit production. Both varieties possess a semi-determinate growth habit. Siletz's parthenocarpic nature also allows it to pump out fruit in the middle of the summer when most other varieties begin waning. This last year I planted most of my tomato varieties in a trench (lowered bed gardening) in the middle of my yard and provided west side shade from a bean trellis. The lowered bed method is also used by the Community Gardens of Tucson and is very useful for southwestern gardening. My seed source for this Siletz was Territorial Seed Company.

End of Season Roots of Siletz, Celebrity, and Ozark Pink Tomatoes.

Last crop of the season ready for paper bags. No other varieties compared.


Monday, December 26, 2011

Tomato Growth Patterns

It seems that some of the best tomato varieties I have trialed here in Tucson are those that continue to grow new branches despite having a shorter growth pattern. These tomatoes are often called semi-determinate because they exhibit the growth pattern of an indeterminate without having the size of one.


The wild tomato variety, L. hirsutum exhibits growth size based on pot size.
Determinate tomatoes usually grow short bush-type plants and have a crop that ripens all at once. This is very helpful with a farmer who harvests all his nearly ripe green tomatoes with a tractor. Meanwhile, indeterminate tomatoes are characterized by tall growing tomato plants that can often grow as tall as a small tree and often require support to keep them from rambling. Determinates tend to do very well in pots while indeterminates tend reach their full potential when grown in the ground. Gardenweb has a good explanation of both determinate and indeterminate tomato plants while Sandy’s Garden has a good explanation of what a semi-determinate tomato plant is You can use the tomato's growth habit to your advantage if you factor it into the positioning of the plants in your garden.

On Temporary Greenhouses



My temporary greenhouse in December
Creating a temporary greenhouse can be quite rewarding as long as you can keep it sanitary and disease-free. I have only experienced the joy of growing normally warm season produce in the greenhouse once. There was a direct correlation between the growing of that tomato crop and my garden contracting Septoria. So since then I decided to minimize my exposure to disease by putting all my tomato transplants in pots. Though I have been doing well in starting tomatoes I am still experimenting with how to get an early start to my cucumbers. I have almost given up on that though – I can only experiment with winter planting so many times before I need to buy more seed.

Regular cucumbers have a tough time taking any cold. It seems that the slightest frost will wilt a cucumber seedling while tomato plants are a little more forgiving to cool weather.

A good location is a very important factor in determining where to place a greenhouse. A place that faces south and receives a lot of direct sunlight is very important. It also helps if you can position your greenhouse to receive radiant heat from nearby structures. That way your greenhouse area can be more resilient to drops in temperature. My greenhouse consists of a sheet of 5 mil plastic that has been placed diagonally against a south-facing block wall that receives full sun exposure. By placing plastic along the upper part on top of the block wall (with blocks securing the plastic on top) and placing the lower part of the plastic along the garden’s edge (with blocks securing the plastic on the bottom) I am able to secure most of the greenhouse. I can continue securing the plastic on the west perimeter of the garden with blocks though I secure the eastern part of the plastic with a piece of rebarb that is rolled up in the plastic to secure it from the wind because the eastern portion of the garden continues beyond my greenhouse. I made a skeleton of wood pieces that lie diagonally from below the lip of the block wall to the edge of my winter garden. These wood pieces help keep the plastic up and keep it from moving around so much in the advent of a mild winter windstorm. Besides the radiant heat from the south-facing block wall, I place clear plastic bottles inside the greenhouse to soak up the sunlight and keep the temperature within the greenhouse as moderate as possible. Water is very good at moderating temperature, though I find that a clear plastic bottle absorbs heat much better than the opaque plastic bottle does.
 
The inside of my greenhouse with waterbottles and tomato transplants in sunken pots.

My 2011 Winter Garden

The Kids' Winter Garden in the Foreground
For those of you who have not had a winter garden in the past let me tell you – it can be wonderful. Some people in Tucson only plant winter gardens because they do not want the hassle and maintenance that summer gardens often demand. Though growing may happen at a slower pace, the watering required is so much less than required during the summer in any arid landscape. Because most insects do not do well in freezing temperatures, if you remove leaf debris you should be able to keep most bugs absent of your crop.  The major setback associated with winter gardening is waiting for plants to get big enough to harvest. This fall I planted mustard greens (for my soil fumigation experiment), Imperial Star artichoke, Little Marvel peas, radish, Purple Dragon carrots (for seed), Chartwell Romaine lettuce, Viroflay spinach.

I try to only plant Patented varieties of vegetables, such as the Imperial Star Artichoke, after the patent has run out. That way, I have full rights every part of the plant I produce. I currently also have some tomato starts in with my winter crop in my winter garden greenhouse.

The rest of my winter garden that is not in the greenhouse.

Monday, December 19, 2011

Developing my Philosophy of Gardening

Scientific Gardener with Purple Dragon Carrot
I have been reading a really good book recently called The Resilient Gardener. The author gives a good perspective on what gardening should be about, or at least gives a good perspective on the importance of gardening in the times in which we live. Here’s the quote: “What is critical isn’t ownership of land so much as the knowledge and skills to use it. When and if the time comes that people in your region need more local food production in order to survive, if you have the knowledge, seeds, and tools, people will make the land available. Up until then, you only need enough land to pay and learn on, and to produce what you care most about and what you most enjoy.” –The Resilient Gardner Food Production and Self-Reliance in Uncertain Times. by Carol Deppe. The reason I agree with this way of thinking because what matters more than anything else in gardening is having the knowledge and the seeds. Everything else can - and will often - change.