Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Hand Pollinating Melons

At the beginning of each summer it often takes a while for Tucson’s wild (and domestic) bees to find the flowers in my garden. Often, during this time of year, I look around my yard wondering where the bees are hiding and conclude that if I want my vegetables pollinated then I will have to do it myself.

Male Melon Blossom - front view

Members of the Curbitaceae family (Cucumbers, Melons, and Squash) are monoecious. The Latin of this name means “one house” and refers to the separation of the reproductive parts of the plant into individual male and female flowers that grow on the same plant. The technique of hand-pollinating monoecious vegetables is pretty straight-forward. Here are some pictures to aid in hand pollinating melon vines.
Male Melon Blossom - side view

Before pollinating, it is important to ensure that both male and female flowers in bloom. Male flowers can be identified by the small short anthers with pollen in the middle of the flower and the thin stem, devoid of bulging, leading up to the flower. In contrast, female flowers exhibit a roundish folded stigma in the center of the flower and a thicker immature shape which contains the unpollinated fruit.
A Female Melon Blossom with immature fruit (Left)

Once the presence of a male and female flower have been verified, then comes the pollinating itself. With melon flowers I just pick the male flower, leaving as much stem as possible attached, and pull back the petals to expose the anthers.
Pulling back the petals of the Male Blossom to expose the anthers




Exposed Anthers of Male Blossom
To pollinate, I insert the male flower into the female flower just enough so that I can feel that the male anthers just make contact with the female stigma. One technique I found very effective to avoid damaging the female stigma is to gently rub the male anthers around in the female flower to release the pollen. After pollinating I then toss the male flower aside and hope for the best. If you desire to increase chances that pollination will occur you can either pollinate again with another male flower or you can wait until the next day to attempt the process again. This will help you to overcome male pollen that is not viable or a female flower that is not fully mature.
Pollinating Female Melon Blossom with male Anther

In general, both male and female flowers have a window of opportunity in which the bees (or people) can complete the pollination process due to the limited timespan of male pollen viability and female fruit receptivity. Male flowers lose their viability when the flower petals turn a pale color and close, while unpollinated female flowers are usually identified only after the fruit part of the stem turns yellow wilts. In order to encourage consistent flower production, I regularly remove any wilted fruit or pale flowers.
Female Melon blossoms progress (left to right): Immature, Pollinated, and Fruiting
Pollinating your plants may be necessary if you are growing in a greenhouse or if you need to isolate a specific vegetable variety (cultivar) from another cultivar that you are growing. If you are rouging or culling a specific variety for breeding purposes, it is important to pollinate your own plants by selfing. Rather than crossing plants using male and female flowers from different vines, selfing isolates qualities of a specific plant by only pollinating female flowers with male flowers of that specific plant. Once you have isolated the qualities of a vegetable variety and produced seed, you can then replant that seed to create a landrace (a large population of a variety that is adapted to your climate) by crossing as many plants of the new variety as possible. The purpose of a landrace is to keep future plants vigorous and strong by increasing genetic variability within a given population. Lack of cross pollination within a vegetable variety can weaken the variety and eventually lead to inbreeding depression.

So – why should a gardener hand-pollinate their melons if there are no natural pollinators? To watch as the female fruit grows.
A pollinated melon sets fruit and begins to grow. =)

Saturday, May 11, 2013

Eureka!

Ripe tomatoes can sometimes be hard to find.

I knew this tomato was there, and had been looking for it under the bush for quite a while – and finally I found it!


The only hybrid in my garden - Celebrity

Each year I compare heirloom tomato varieties to the one variety I continually strive to beat – Celebrity. So far, Celebrity is winning. Most everything in my garden is open pollinated and can outdo its hybrid counterpart – but I have a long way to go to beat this hybrid tomato variety.

 

Monday, May 6, 2013

Onion Blossoms

Onion Blossoms are so pretty.

 
Onions are a self-incompatible perfect flower – which means they have all the parts to pollinate themselves but they require a pollinator to come to multiple flowers to produce seed.

 

Friday, May 3, 2013

With Heat comes Reptiles

As my children get older I find that they have inherited my tendency for catching lizards. My younger son recently stated that when he grows up he wants to have a “lizard ranch”.


A young Spotted Whiptail Lizard about to go into my garden

While rising summer temperatures increase, so does the activity of the reptiles outside. My children run after whiptails and fence lizards during by day and my wife and I enjoy seeing the geckos consume moths around our porch light at night.

This Blind snake does not want his picture taken

This last week was the second time I saw a blind snake, while many people here in Tucson keep tame desert tortoises in their backyard. Reptiles are pretty well adapted to the Southwest and make our desert landscape much more interesting.

The Blind snake showing his head on his way off

Thursday, April 25, 2013

Gardening in Layers

One of the reasons why I love to grow things here in Tucson in the summer time is to see my garden turn into a miniature jungle. On a small scale, I can use the intense light to my advantage by packing in as many vegetables as I can into as small as a space as possible. This is what I call “intensive planting”.


My understory here has squash and sweet potato vines.

Intensive planting can occur in an area where the intensity and duration of sunlight is so great that you can cover every square inch of ground with vegetables. In areas of the country where there is minimal light (or in partially shaded areas with a lot of moisture) gardeners may not be able to grow their plants so close together without experiencing negative side effects such as bacterial or fungus problems.

As I plan my garden based on where the sun will be and based on how much light my plants will receive throughout the day I am getting the most light out of the area that I have. As I decide where to plant vegetables, I think of my plants based on their eventual size, and imagine what my “miniature jungle” will look like later on in the summer.
 
One method of intense planting is to consider plant height

 The lowest canopy of my garden is often covered with sweet potatoes – which spread like ivy in all directions – only a few inches off the ground. The next tallest area is populated with peppers, tomatoes, squash and other plants that grow between 2 and 4 feet tall. The highest area of my garden is populated with cucumber or bean vines, some of which will grow as high as I can trellis.

Vigorous tall pole beans grow next to squash of medium height

By thinking about layers when planting, gardeners can avoid having to do much weeding, especially later in the season. Though this method may not be for everyone, it is definitely one approach that has served me well for me here in Arizona.


One of the few problems with a crowded garden is where to walk